Glycolics and Lactics and Jessner's, OH MY!!!

Many women who pamper their skin are opting for chemical peels as a way of improving the texture and tone. Depending on the type you choose the results can be extremely dramatic.  If you are interested in a chemical peel, it is important to understand what they can and can’t do. Chemical peels can improve your skin texture, give you a “pretty glow”, help to resolve dark spots, improve acne and in some cases remove pre skin cancers. They can not get rid of deep wrinkles, reverse loss of elasticity, or replace the need for a face lift in any stretch of the imagination.

Chemical peels fall into three categories: superficial, medium and deep. Alphahydroxy acids are used for superficial peels. These include glycolic, lactic, salicylic and fruit acids. These peels have minimal down time and result in smoother, brighter skin.  Depending on the strength used, a series of 5-8 are typically needed.

Trichloroacetic (TCA) peels are medium strength and require more recovery time. Deep peels utilize phenol. These can be used for deep, coarse wrinkles but they carry more risks. Patients must understand that there is a permanent change in their skin coloring and they may lose the ability to tan. Also there are serious risks involved for phenol peels used on patients with a history of heart disease or high blood pressure.

All of the chemicals used in peels come in varying concentrations and other ingredients can be used to alter the peels. The peel I like combines salicylic, lactic and retinoic acid (also known as a Jessner's Peel). This combination allows the peel to penetrate deeper which allows for superior results, but without the risks of deeper peels. 

Chemical peels should only be applied by licensed individuals. Remember this is your face and it can not be replaced! Even superficial peels carry the risk of permanent scarring if applied improperly.

The procedure starts with the face being thoroughly and properly cleansed. The peel is then applied, usually several layers are used. During this time it is normal to experience a tingling or light burning sensation in the areas being treated. The face may be flushed or slightly yellow afterwards. Depending on the type of peel used it may require washing the face after a timed interval, that can vary from several minutes to several hours. During the next several days the skin will flake and peel. It is important to keep the face well hydrated with moisturizers during this period and to not pick at the flaking skin.

After several days to a week the exfoliation is complete and that “pretty glow” is yours!
 

BYE, BYE, BACNE!

Hi everyone! It's been two weeks since my last visit with you. During that time I received an email from a high school friend who has been following the blog. She has a daughter who is getting ready for prom and is struggling with acne on her back, otherwise known as BACNE. I am sure lots of you out there are dealing with the same thing with your kids or even yourselves so I am going to tell you what I know and hope that it helps. I am also inviting all of you out there to share your stories. Maybe you found an unconventional treatment that worked for you that we may not have heard of. Whether medical, herbal, etc...I would really love hearing your feedback and remedies on this one.

It is inevitable; almost all teens will get some form of acne. Whether it is moderate, mild, or severe, it can be embarrassing and uncomfortable. It is all part of being a teenager, but it can seem to come at the most inopportune times...like prom and your first date.

Teens are most definitely prone to getting acne because their bodies are developing and going through many different phases. Chemicals are rushing in and out of them, causing the body to react with zits on the face, back, and sometimes even on arms and legs.
These pimples can be ugly and cause pain for some teens. Below is an idea of how to categorize between the different levels of acne.

Moderate - only a few zits here and there. Mostly smaller sized, and don't last long, but once one disappears, another comes back!

Mild - zits appear on all different parts of the face, maybe in a reddish coloration. Last for a week or two and are the "ready to pop" or blister kind.

Severe - sections of acne on the face; very red colored and sore to the touch. Most of the face is covered in pimples that are blister-like and may leave scars. May appear on the back, arms and legs.

Bacne can occur due to several reasons. The most common cause of bacne is the secretion of oily sebum by the sebaceous glands which are seen under the skin. These glands secrete more sebum when one reaches puberty. The main function of the sebaceous glands is to keep the skin and hair healthy and moist. Too much of a good thing creates the bacne skin condition. The sebum that is secreted by the sebaceous glands comes out through the small openings on our skin. These small opening are called pores. When there is excess secretion of the sebum by the sebaceous glands, the pores and the hair follicles on the skin get blocked. Dead cells that are shed by the skin every minute can't find a way to escape from the skin. Instead, they accumulate around the hair follicles. That's when bacteria begin to develop. These bacteria that begin to irritate the surrounding tissue leading to the inflammation of the skin. Ok, so now that I've given you a sixth grade health class lesson, let's talk about a few things that I know can work.

Let me start by saying I am not a doctor, although the advise I give here comes from my experience in a med spa environment it is not intended as a substitute for medical treatment. My goal is to give you info you may not have so that you may use it as a jumpstart to finding the solution.

There are four main ways to treat bacne. These are:

1. Reducing pore blockage by normalizing the shedding of skin cells.

2. Reduction of P. acnes bacteria.

3. Reduction of the inflammation associated with bacne.

4. Altering of hormone levels

The common treatment to reduce pore blockage is by exfoliating the skin. This means you use an abrasive cloth or chemical to remove the top layer of skin whereby less dead cells are present to block pores and cause bacne.

To kill P. Acnes bacteria, many over the counter treatments are available that contain benzoyl peroxide. Mild to moderate bacne can often be treated in this manner. If you have a severe bacne, your doctor may decide to put you on topical antibiotics. Topical antibiotics such as clindamycin, erythromycin, and tetracycline are applied directly to the skin. There are also a variety of oral antibiotics available for the treatment of bacne. These include erythromycin and tetracycline.

Due to hormonal imbalances, some females may benefit from hormone treatments. These include estrogen/progestogen which is why some women see their acne and bacne improve when they go on birth control pills.

Topical retinoids are also available for bacne treatment. The retinoids help prevent the hyperkeratinization of cells which often leads to pore blockage, thus reducing bacne breakouts.

An energy treatment for bacne is the use of blue and red light lasers which can reduce bacne lesions by up to 64%. This makes lasers a very effective bacne treatment. Isolaz is a laser treatment which combines the use of a vacuum to extract the pore along with blue light to kill the leftover bacteria. I've seen this one work very well.

If a more natural approach is what you are hoping for I will say three words DEAD SEA SALT. Dead Sea salt works best but any type of sea salt is said to work for acne. The Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth, is near Jerusalem in the Judean Desert. Dead Sea salt has 10 times more minerals than ordinary sea salt. The Dead Sea salts or minerals are calcium, potassium, magnesium, sodium and iron, sulphur, phosphorus and chlorine. These minerals assist in cleansing, detoxifying and restoring a healthy status of the body, especially the skin and muscles. High sulfur content in sea salt is useful in the cleansing required to purify the skin of acne sufferers. Dead Sea salts thus are an endless source of balanced elements that aid in treating acne, and promoting great health and tone.
How to Use Sea Salt :

Dissolve 2-3 cups of this salt in the bath tub and soak in it for 20-25 minutes. Thereafter, wash it off with plain warm water. This treatment can be used every day. When using Sea Salt as a bath soak for acne, you can add a few drops of lavender essential oil to the bath water. The mixture is very effective for body acne and also relaxes away stress and sore muscles.

Another widely used anti-acne home remedy is apple cider vinegar. The product of pulverized fermented apples, cider vinegar has long been used as a treatment for acne. When applied topically, the acetic and alpha-hydroxy acids in apple cider vinegar attack bacteria and help dry out blemishes. It’s believed that apple cider vinegar helps detoxify the body when taken internally, therefore promoting clear skin. Although this has never been proven scientifically, it’s been used as an effective detoxifying remedy for thousands of years.

Dilute 1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar with 1/3 cup water. Soak cotton ball with mixture and apply directly to blemishes. It’s best to do this each night, before bed, as apple cider vinegar doesn't smell pleasant. Wash off in the morning. Also for a weekly mask: Make an apple cider vinegar and bentonite or green clay treatment mask. Mix 1 part green clay with 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar. Add water until the clay becomes a thick paste. Apply the mask to your face or body and leave on 15 to 20 minutes, or until the mask dries. Rinse off with cold water. Bentonite clay draws toxins from your pores. When mixed with apple cider vinegar, it becomes a potent acne remedy. Use the mask once a week.

Lastly, I’ve heard of a "treatment" using Head and Shoulders dandruff shampoo. I do not have any idea if this works as I don't know anyone personally who has tried this method. I am going to give you the instructions as they were given to me. If any of you decide to try this out I would love for you to post the results. The directions are as follows:

1. Shower as usual then pour a decent amount of the classic Head and Shoulders shampoo into your palm.

2. Rub in the mixture all over affected area.

3. Leave the shampoo on for 5 minutes and rinse!

Finally, drink lots of water. Water flushes out toxins that can potentially end up in your skin!

I am now taking appointments at the Salon Professional Academy on JFK in North Little Rock. Just call 501-753-2400 to schedule a facial, waxing, acne treatment, makeover, or electrotherapy facial.

Looking forward to hearing from you ~ Sharon

Confused About Cosmetic Injections?

With so many different products on the market now for the benefit of cosmetic correction and enhancement, it is no wonder there is so much confusion on which products are for what result. It seems at least once a week, someone will ask me "Do I need some Botox in my lips?", or say "I think need some collagen injected between my eyes!". So, this week I am going to attempt to discuss some of the more common options and explain their differences and proper uses.

BOTOX is an injectable like the other products, but it is not a facial filler. This product is derived from the botulinum toxin which is actually a neurotoxin. It works by inhibiting the muscle contractions in the brow and wherever it is injected. It freezes these muscles which cause wrinkles that appear as a result of movement like facial expressions. I am also asked quite often about Botox being food poisioning. The answer to that is yes, it is a toxin. But this toxin after sterilization and purification has also medical applications when used in small doses. Botox was first approved in 1989 by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to treat cross-eye and uncontrollable blinking. The physicians treating the patients in such cases observed the side effects of these treatments included smoothing of the frown lines between the eyebrows. Thus, the cosmetic application of this toxin was discovered.   Botox is the most commonly used cosmetic injectable and is very safe when applied by a physician or highly skilled nurse. It is also reasonably affordable with the average cost ranging from $200-$300 per area treated. It is important to note that results are not immediate. Typically, results begin to appear in 3 days but full results take 7-10 days and last 3-5 months.

Where Botox is used to treat wrinkles caused from facial expressions, dermal fillers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Radiesse, etc. are used for the treatment of lines caused from loss of volumne and elasticity in the skin. The little parenthesis we get on the sides of the nose extending to the chin is an example. Fillers are also used to enhance the fullness or shape of the lips and in some cases, the chin and cheeks. Scarring from injury to the face or acne can also be corrected with dermal fillers.   There are many different types of dermal fillers which include human collagen, hyaluronic acid, calcium products, and even one’s own fat. Each of the dermal fillers has different strengths and weakness, some last longer than others, sometimes a combination of different fillers may be used for best results. The average cost of fillers range from $450-$800. Results are immediate and can last 6-12months.

All of that being said, let me simplify it. As we age our facial lines get deeper and deeper, even when we are not frowning, squinting, or using facial muscles. If creases are only apparent when we squint, only Botox is needed. If creases are visible at rest, and not made worse by squinting, then fillers are necessary. If creases are present at rest, and get worse with facial expressions, then Botox AND fillers may be necessary. Although there are a few exceptions, the general rule is this: Botox should be used from the center of the face and up and dermal fillers from the center of the face and down. Your cosmetic professional will help you decide what is right for you.
am now taking appointments at the Salon Professional on JFK in North Little Rock. Just call 501-753-2400 to schedule a facial, waxing, acne treatment, makeover, or electrotherapy facial.


xoxoSharon Gray

Skin Girl

Living with Rosaca

Last night while I was busy trying to decide what to write about in my bext blog, I received an email from a friend asking me about treatments for Rosacea. So, I decided to make that this week's topic. Thanks, Girl!

Rosacea is one of the most devastating conditions for men and women in today's society, affecting the look, feel, and texture of our skin. Although it characteristically attacks the facial skin, it is also found on other areas of the body as well. These areas are sometimes ignored since the blushing or flushing symptom is only found on the face. Rosacea has very well defined characteristics which include redness or flushing, as well as small papules, slight scaling, and erythematous papules. It is also sometimes called "adult acne" although, like common acne, rosacea is not primarily a plague of teenagers but most often occurs in adults (ages 30 to 50), especially those with fair skin. There are usually no blackheads or whiteheads in rosacea. Furthermore, most teens eventually outgrow acne whereas patients with rosacea don't generally outgrow it. Rosacea patients tend to have a rosy or pink color to their skin as opposed to acne patients whose skin is usually less red. Rosacea consists mostly of small red bumps that are not "squeezable" or extractable like blackheads.

Now that you know how to recognize the signs of rosacea, let's talk about treatment and control options. First let me make clear that topical products for roceasa are NOT effective on vascular forms of rosacea. Topicals are only effective on the acne type symptoms of this problem, the most common being metronidazole, aka., metro-gel, a topical antibiotic. Another effective treatment, although more costly, is laser or IPL treatments which proves to be effective in both types of rosacea. These treatments may cause some discomfort. While most people are able to endure the procedure, ice packs and topical anesthetic cream can help alleviate the discomfort. Multiple treatments are typically necessary and the procedure is not covered by most insurances. Treatments are recommended in three- to six-week intervals; during this time, sun avoidance is necessary.

Last but not least, if laser is the way you decide to go, do your research! Make sure that the facility treating is physician staffed and that the person applying the technique is not only qualified but very experienced. This is so important because a laser in the wrong hands could not only aggravate your condition, but also burn the skin causing irreversible damage and scarring.

Almost everyone I know has someone in their life that has this condition so I hope that it has been informative. Thanks for reading and don't forget to share with your friends! Oh, FYI: I am now taking appointments at the Salon Professional on JFK in North Little Rock. Just call 501-753-2400 to schedule a facial, waxing, acne treatment, makeover, or electrotherapy facial.
xoxoSharon Gray
Skin Girl

Hi Facebook Friends,

Those of you who know me well know that skin care is my passion. I've worked on the medical side of skin care for several years and am soon to receive my esthetician's license. Since leaving the clinic to go back to school many of you have called or emailed asking my advise on your skin care needs and it makes me feel so good to know that you trust me with your most important asset, your SKIN. I have hated being away and because I have missed talking with you all so much, I've decided to start a skin care blog in order to stay connected. Please be kind, as this is my very first attempt at "blogging" and do not pretend to be a writer. It is my hope that this little blog will help to keep me connected to those I've helped in the past as well as get me connected to those I haven't.

We all want to know the best way to protect and care for our complexions and you can do it by following the advice I will be posting weekly. I will be looking forward to your questions and feedback.

Since this is my first try, we will start with the basics. Taking care of your skin daily requires three simple steps. Washing your face in the morning and evening with a mild cleanser will eliminate dirt and oils that clog your pores. There is no need for harsh scrubs or astringents, sometimes they just irritate the sensitive skin around your nose and mouth. It’s better to use gentle circular motions with your fingertips as you clean your face. The next step is to use a daily moisturizer with an SPF of 15 or higher to protect your face from sun damage. It’s never too late or too early to prevent wrinkles and age spots with careful applications of sunscreen.

Most skin care specialists will recommend an anti-aging cream or lotion as part of your evening beauty routine. Depending on your age and your own skin’s sensitivity, certain key ingredients can be useful in a night cream. If your skin is oily or prone to break outs you might want to consider a cream with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. For older skin and wrinkle prone skin, hyaluronic acid is a fast acting anti-aging chemical found in many lotions. Other ingredients to look for include anti-oxidents such as Vitamin C, also known as Ascorbic acid, and Retinoic acid a.k.a. tretinoin (sold as Retin A, Renova and other brands). These ingredients will diminish the appearance of wrinkles and if used regularly can protect your skin from free radical damage. However, be aware that Retinoic acid (Retin-A) and Retinol are related but NOT the same. Because retinol has not been converted in to an active metabolite, acid, it actually oxidizes when placed on the skin rendering it ineffective. As a result, significantly less people respond to retinol creams than to retinoic acid (tretinoin, Retin A. There are some who do see some "results", but the degree of response tends to be less.

Everyone agrees that beauty comes from within. That’s why a healthy diet is so important. Eating lots of fruits and vegetables means your body will have the right balance of nutrients to create glowing skin. Vitamin A & C, beta carotene, and fiber are just some of nature’s ingredients for perfect skin. Eating refined and fatty foods will not only pack on the pounds, but will slow your metabolism and prevent your skin from looking its best. Drinking plenty of water each day will also help your body to naturally eliminate toxins and waste instead of letting them pool in your pores.

Remember to discuss side effects with your doctor whenever you are given medications because some drugs will effect your complexion, especially birth control pills and hormone replacements.

Taking care of your face is an incredibly important part of putting your best self forward so don’t neglect these simple daily steps!

If you have enjoyed this blog, please share it with your friends and I will be back next week with something new to share with you.

Sharon Gray

The Skin Girl