Glycolics and Lactics and Jessner's, OH MY!!!

Many women who pamper their skin are opting for chemical peels as a way of improving the texture and tone. Depending on the type you choose the results can be extremely dramatic.  If you are interested in a chemical peel, it is important to understand what they can and can’t do. Chemical peels can improve your skin texture, give you a “pretty glow”, help to resolve dark spots, improve acne and in some cases remove pre skin cancers. They can not get rid of deep wrinkles, reverse loss of elasticity, or replace the need for a face lift in any stretch of the imagination.

Chemical peels fall into three categories: superficial, medium and deep. Alphahydroxy acids are used for superficial peels. These include glycolic, lactic, salicylic and fruit acids. These peels have minimal down time and result in smoother, brighter skin.  Depending on the strength used, a series of 5-8 are typically needed.

Trichloroacetic (TCA) peels are medium strength and require more recovery time. Deep peels utilize phenol. These can be used for deep, coarse wrinkles but they carry more risks. Patients must understand that there is a permanent change in their skin coloring and they may lose the ability to tan. Also there are serious risks involved for phenol peels used on patients with a history of heart disease or high blood pressure.

All of the chemicals used in peels come in varying concentrations and other ingredients can be used to alter the peels. The peel I like combines salicylic, lactic and retinoic acid (also known as a Jessner's Peel). This combination allows the peel to penetrate deeper which allows for superior results, but without the risks of deeper peels. 

Chemical peels should only be applied by licensed individuals. Remember this is your face and it can not be replaced! Even superficial peels carry the risk of permanent scarring if applied improperly.

The procedure starts with the face being thoroughly and properly cleansed. The peel is then applied, usually several layers are used. During this time it is normal to experience a tingling or light burning sensation in the areas being treated. The face may be flushed or slightly yellow afterwards. Depending on the type of peel used it may require washing the face after a timed interval, that can vary from several minutes to several hours. During the next several days the skin will flake and peel. It is important to keep the face well hydrated with moisturizers during this period and to not pick at the flaking skin.

After several days to a week the exfoliation is complete and that “pretty glow” is yours!