Understanding Product Choices by Learning to Read the Labels

So let's get down to it. What the heck makes the $10 cream found your local drugstore different from the $50 cream found at a department store, different from the $50 cream found at a dermatologist or esthetic office? Heck what makes the $50 cream I sell different than the $200 cream another person sells? Well a lot. An awful lot. And an awful lot that is hard to describe, but I'm going to try anyway.

Before we get to all that we need to understand the anatomy of a product. To understand the quality of a product you must be able to read a label, and to do that you need to understand the major categories of what makes up a product. This list is compiled thanks to www.smartskin.com.

Antioxidants: Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals. Damage by free radicals is one of the key mechanisms of the aging process. Also, free radicals mediate many forms of inflammation. Antioxidants reduce the skin's exposure to free radicals. Not all antioxidants are created equal, they vary by the range of activity, solubility in oil and water, and other properties.

Active Ingredients: An optimal skin care product should contain one or more active ingredients in an effective concentration. These are the ingredients that actually do something to the skin. For example Retinal or Vitamin C would be an active ingredient.

Binding Agents: Substances that hold products together and prevents separation of the water and lipid components. The most important binding agents in skin care are emulsifiers.

Emulsifiers: Emulsion is a smooth blend of oil and water. Since most skin care product formulas include both water and oil soluble ingredients, emulsions are very popular in skin care. Most creams and lotions are emulsions. However, emulsions are unstable and quickly separate. Emulsifiers are substances that stabilize emulsions and prevent products from separating.

Delivery Enhancers/Systems: Ingredients that enhance delivery of other ingredients into the skin and/or insider skin cells. This is easily the most important category when it comes to separating the good and the bad products since the delivery system dictates how much product is actually used by the skin.

Emollients: Substances that smooth and soften the skin. There exist a wide variety of emollients, each providing its own individual texture to the skin. This is usually the ingredient that creates "slip" or "feel" which in product lingo mean how the product feels to the user. Often companies spend more money on making a product feel good than making it work since feel sells to the ignorant.
Humectants: Substances that can attract water, usually out of the air. By definition, all are also moisturizers. In fact, any good moisturizer has to contain potent humectants. Serums are comprised of humectants.

Lubricants: Substances that make skin feel smoother to the touch and reduce friction; more common in hand creams. Once again we have slip and feel.

Preservatives: Substances that kill detrimental bacteria, yeast and/or molds, thus prevent spoilage. While some preservatives may occasionally be irritating to the skin, the use of products spoiled by microorganisms may be equally or more damaging. Sometimes antioxidants and stabilizers are also referred to as preservatives because they inhibit chemical degradation of products.

Solvents: Substances, such as alcohol or water, which dissolve other ingredients.

Surfactants: wetting agents, substances capable of reducing the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved. In skin care, surfactants enable a topical product to easily spread and glide across the skin.

Vehicle: The base that carries the active ingredients.

Fragrance/Color: the other stuff that goes into a product to make it more appealing for sale.

To best understand what makes a product effective you need to be able to read a label. Anyone watching what they eat will tell you reading the labels allows them to know exactly what they are getting and make educated choices on what they put into their bodies. The main problem with reading skin care labels is that most of us know what partially hydrogenated soybean oil is, but we don't know what Dimethicone 350 is and what it does. This makes reading skin care labels very difficult, but there are a few questions you should keep in mind:


◦What are the Active Ingredients?

◦What does this Active Ingredient do?

◦Is there enough of the Active Ingredient in the product for it to work?

◦Does the product's formulation allow Active Ingredients to penetrate the skin?

◦Do any of the inactive ingredients (the other stuff) interfere with the effect of the active ones? Do they have the potential to harm the skin, e. g. by causing allergic reactions, irritating or dehydrating the skin, clogging pores, etc.

I am not going to delve deeply into the FDA laws on labeling since they are complicated, and most cosmetic companies ignore them anyway, but I am going to give you a basic run down of how to read a label.

Breaking Down A Label

So lets start at the top. Active Ingredients. An Active ingredient is the substance that is pharmaceutically active. In other words, what makes the product work. We all want to effect changes in our skin and the only way to do that is to use products that have ingredients designed to target specific problems.



In this label the Active Ingredient is Salicylic Acid 0.5%.

The next part of the label is a laundry list of what makes up the product, including the Active Ingredient.

You might notice that Salicylic Acid is almost at the bottom of the ingredient list. This is completely normal. Most products are made up of water and other ingredients that create feel, smell, slip, color, and preservation. A good manufacturer will carefully chose these other ingredients to enhance the Active Ingredient and help get you the end result you seek, but many manufacturers use cheap filler substances to sell to your senses, or just plain trick you. My favorite example of this is menthol. A client will come in and tell me that they "feel" a product working. When I look at the label I discover that what they are feeling is menthol - a key ingredient of Vapor Rub - tingly on the skin. Trust me, it isn't doing anything but making you "feel" like the product is working.

Although the US federal regulations require ingredients to be listed in descending order from most to least, the FDA doesn't require that a distinction be made between active or inactive ingredients. Also, any ingredients with concentrations below 1% may be listed in any order the manufacturer sees fit. This means that the top third of the ingredients listed generally consist of around 80-90% of the entire product, the middle third represents around 5-8% of the product, and the bottom third represents 1-3% of the total product. Doing this math is easier than you think. Let's work with the 22 ingredients in our sample product label. We take our 22 ingredients, divide them by 3, and get 7 1/3. So we can estimate that the first 7 ingredients make up 80-90% of the total volume of the product.

An easy trick for comparing products is to compare labels. Start by counting how many total ingredients are listed on each product. Try to chose products that have close to the same total number of ingredients. Then count down from the first ingredient until you reach your Active Ingredient. If you find your Active Ingredient listed as #8 on one product and #10 on the other product, then the #8 listing is the product that contains more of the Active Ingredient because it is closer to the top of the label. But remember that this trick is useless if the ingredient you seek falls into the bottom third or 1% of the label because these ingredients can be listed in any order.

Now that you have the basics of reading a label let's learn to choose the correct ingredient with the correct amount of oomph!  Remember, just because it's in a beautiful jar with an outrageous price tag, doesn't mean it's a miracle in a jar.  In other words, make sure you are paying for the ingrediants NOT the packaging.  Take a few extra minutes to read the label, it may save you some money as well as your skin!

FYI:  I will be back to work in a matter of just a few weeks.  I've got about 1 week left of school, State Board testing, and then I will be back to work for which I can't wait!  I am working on some info for the guys in our lives.  My next blog will be totally for the MEN...stay tuned!!!